La Sierra graduate to present ancient cosmetics research at annual conference

Specifically, La Sierra University archaeology graduate Betty Adams is interested in understanding the use of makeup among the inhabitants of an area east of the Jordan River during the Iron Age--around 3,000 years ago—and her thesis explores the identification and use of cosmetic palettes. In reviewing artifacts that were excavated, she determined that many pieces had potential to be used in the creation, mixing, and application of makeup. Her work focuses on discovering if more precise information can be gathered on how these pieces were used. 

The ancient palettes Adams is studying are housed in La Sierra’s extensive artifacts collection at the university’s Center for Near Eastern Archaeology. Preliminary results from residue analysis indicates the presence of lipids and minerals on the palettes that potentially could have been used in cosmetics. Adams is presenting this data at the American Schools of Oriental Research Annual Meeting in November in Denver, Colo. She received a master’s degree in Near Eastern archaeology during La Sierra’s graduation on June 17.

Adams’ scientific tests over the past months of residues left behind on the ancient palettes prompted her interest in developing a better understanding how these materials behave. She decided to explore the possible ancient combinations of various elements potentially used to create makeup by involving La Sierra faculty, staff and students functioning as test subjects to create and apply cosmetics based on potential recipes. 

Adams is attempting to fill a knowledge gap in history: while information abounds about cosmetics use by ancient Egyptians and the Romans of the Iron Age of 1200 -- 1,000 BCE, little is known about the use of makeup by peoples of ancient Jordan, Israel, Palestine and other regions of the Levant during this time.

On April 25 Adams stood in a La Sierra University chemistry lab with a smart phone timer in hand and timed three students and a faculty member and his wife as they mixed different recipes ancient inhabitants may have used for face cream, eyeliner and rouge. With mortar and pestles made of either basalt, soap stone or glass to grind and mix, and applicators of bronze and bone, they combined measured amounts of charcoal, clay, indigo dye, rose quartz, magnesium acetate, red, yellow and brown ochre, mica, malachite, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, kaolin clay, olive oil, and other ingredients with various forms of lamb fat and beeswax. 

It was the second of two testing sessions, the first conducted in February. The tests were based on results of the analysis of residue left on the excavated palettes and from textual research. Adams researched published information of flora at dig sites in Jordan, of ancient texts, and of cosmetics used by Egyptian and Roman cultures. These modern tests were designed to get a better sense of how the recipes and possible ingredients would interact and behave as makeup as well as understand the types of devices ancient Jordanians and other cultures of the Iron Age Levant most likely used in the application of such makeup. 

The recipe test sessions also considered length of time needed to mix and apply makeup and how the makeup recipes interacted with test subjects’ skin. For example, one formula for face cream alone exceeded 13 minutes to mix and apply during the April session. Adams asked, “In the Iron Age, would you have time to do all this and kill your goat for dinner?”

Adams suggests both men and women wore makeup in ancient times and her test subjects on April 25 included both genders. Participants included Kristina Reed, associate curator of La Sierra’s Center for Near Eastern Archaeology; Andrew Goorhhius, religious studies major; Friedbert Ninow, dean of La Sierra’s H.M.S. Richards Divinity School and his wife, Bernina Ninow, a nurse and archaeology center volunteer; Amanda Oronoz, biochemistry major; Alejandra Mujica, chemistry major; and Xochitl Alicia Torres, a pre-medical student.

All ingredients for Adams’ recipe tests were sourced in the United States. Chemistry student lab technicians, under the direction of Jennifer Helbley, associate professor of chemistry, prepped materials for the April lab test based on the first round of tests in February. In some instances, ancient ingredients were too toxic or potentially damaging to test subjects’ skin to replicate. For example, Romans used a white lead, which is a known toxin, diluted with a vinegar-type substance in face cream. 

“The proof of cosmetic use in the Iron Age Southern Levant will have implications for trade, cultural and technology exchange and societal norms, in addition to the gender implications,” she said.

During the April test session, Goorhuis used Caster oil, charcoal, Indian blue, olive oil and bitumen in making two eyeliner recipes which he applied with bone and bronze applicators. He said the dark blue liner ringing his eyes wasn’t uncomfortable. But, “I don’t have anything to compare it to,” he added.

Friedbert Ninow created two recipes for rouge with red ochre and lamb fat and titanium oxide, resin and clay. He said the rouge felt “like a thick cream.” 

Reed also tested eyeliner formulas. “I love this color. I would wear this color,” Reed said as she swabbed an iridescent blue mixture on her arm before applying it under her eye. When she next combined malachite, indigo blue and Caster oil, an emerald green color emerged. 

Bernina Ninow and Torres made and applied two formulas of face cream using animal fat mixed with magnesium stearate, a white, water-insoluble powder, and animal fat mixed with clay infused with sparkling mica to create a sheen. They then applied rouge to find out if it would adhere to the face cream.

Bernina described the gray-tinged face cream covering her cheeks, nose and forehead as “dry and crumbly, but I think my skin got used to it. The first one was softer and the second one was like a mask.” Of the two formulas she tested, she thought ancient people of Jordan would most likely have used the first recipe as the second combination stuck to the mortar and required too much effort for daily application.

“The last one irritated me a little when I combined the foundation with the blush. It was a little itchy,” said Torres. “Formula One spread better but felt oily.”

Residue analysis of ancient artifacts involved X-ray fluorescence testing by Helbley and her students on a pestle artifact thought to be used for grinding cosmetics. At the University of California, Riverside, Adams used a scanning electronic microscope with electronic dispersive spectrometry to identify inorganic elements on the artifacts. 

The experimental archaeology on cosmetics recipes came about through this initial residue analysis and the assistance of the chemistry department. “This thesis would have been a textual thesis if the chemistry and biochemistry department hadn’t gotten involved,” Adams said.

The archaeological experiments also proved a learning experience for Helbley’s chemistry students. “I loved it, it was so fun,” said biochemistry major Mandi Oronoz. “It’s cool to see how the different compounds react to each other and seeing what would actually work.”